Trip 28 - Caressing Kerela: Bangalore-Wayanad-Payyoli-Bangalore

Two black Royal Enfield Thunderbirds from different eras were ripping across the dodgy black highway on the outskirts of Mysore, switching gears in perfect co-ordination when the custom-made exhaust on the Twinspark 350 rumbled for a split second and then tore itself off the motorcycle only to fly across the road creating sparks as and when it touched the tar. This was an instance just 120 kilometers into our ride from Bangalore to Kerela. Our intent was to explore Kerela and look for challenging locations to set wheels and feet on as we recovered the steaming rumbler, fixed it back with a rod and some thread and rode into the wilderness that South India had to offer. 730 kilometers were achieved in two days on motorcycles, but this time, trekking happened to be a substantial part of the journey too.

Men: Gajapathy, Santosh, Sri and Gokul

Age: 33, 26, 24, 29

Machines: Thunderbird 500 and the Thunderbird 350 Twinspark

Sizzling Start: On the road, two Royal Enfields are always better than one. The sound from every twist of the throttle echoed, as we made it out of the city limits and took the Kanakapura road for Mysore – our first objective. The roads were broad, winding and smooth with the sudden breaker and pothole. We paced ourselves at 80kmph to keep it steady as the occasional gush of wind forced us to be cautious while sliding into turns and curves. Kanakapura passed, then Mallavali, later Mysore after which we just stopped to refuel and fix the silencer before reaching Gundulpet. 177 kilometers were done, and the Sun rose to showcase the terrain and lush green fields bordered with coconut and palm trees. The low lying hills and cascading plains divided by the lone road was a biker’s fantasy. Cool breeze hit the chest as clean air replenished us for another day’s ride. Stopped to wash urban dust off our faces and arms at the water pump on the side of the road and continued our ride towards the Muthanga Forest Reserve. A few kilometers into the ride, the forest reserve appeared. Bright green trees on either side met each other above the road, deer casually grazed at the side of the road and bamboo trees covered in thorne plants set roadside to prevent elephants from coming onto speeding traffic; everything looked new, different and peaceful. Within minutes we had crossed the reserve and were heading towards Wayanad.

9 Hairpins and Coconut Trees:  The clock had struck 8 am and we found ourselves riding into Kerela. Endless coconut groves cropped out of nowhere. Palm trees sitting on the side of the winding road looked like pins on a clipboard. The curves were getting sharper as we rode along the 73 kilometer stretch from Gundulpet to reach the mountains of Wayanad. The machines were doing 70kmph on the curves. Sliding bodyweight from one side to the other; the curves were tackled without reducing speed. After a couple of hours we were on top of the cliff. Magnanimous mountains were scattered across the horizon and the clouds were sailing below the motorcycles, making us feel

invincible. We stopped to stare at the deep backdrop and the roads turning into 9 dangerous hairpins. Our next move was to take them head on, overtaking crowded busses and egoistic car drivers, rumbling away from one hairpin to the other, flashing beams and honking horns to avoid collision. Once the hairpins were done, we again had straights to deal with. Easier and extended curves at lower altitudes defined the terrain. Speeds increased, cars whistled by and the rear drum was taking all the torture. Brief breaks after every hour was vital as it gave us the time to be smitten by the view, survive the highway and have a sense of the day’s objectives.

90minutes = 100kilometers:Exactly 100 kilometers parted us from our first destination, Payyoli beach. The route via Kalpetta and Koliandy were narrow with no dividers. This presented us opportunities to overtake, but at the cost of risks. Cars dangerously swirled on to the wrong side to get in front of the slow moving bus or heavily loaded rigs. We were patient; substantially increasing speed whenever there was a window. Passing town by town, having local delicacies such as puttu baked in an oven made of sand and stone, we kept moving further. Kalpetta approached; a small town with a lot of unmarked turns as motorists had no sense of direction. Later on our brisk ride to Koliandy, scraping through Kozhikode, we started asking for directions. The locals were helpful and in a matter of hours we were just 10 kilometers from Payyoli. Small bridges bridged the gap

between land, marshes and the glorious pristine backwaters. These stand-still lakes made the houseboats look like small sketches on a drawing board. Soon, the small town Payyoli came to vision and a brief 6 kilometer ride across the station unraveled the white sanded beach to us. The view was out of the normal. Casual boats lying on the sand and coconut trees swaying to the hymn of the vast, seamless sea defined the deserted beach. For minutes, we were just small particles in the gigantic universe trying to have fun by reaching our unexplored capabilities. Rode the Thunderbird across the shoreline, kicked some sand with a burnout, rested for a while and then sat down to discuss the rest of the plan. We decided to explore what was all there in the near vicinity. Our next stop was the Tusharagiri falls in Kodengeri 65 kilometers from Payyoli.

Uncertain Certainties:After Payyoli beach, we ditched our original plan of visiting Munnar and the silent valley and started our exploration route towards a waterfall and everything on the way that got our levels of curiosity rising. Tusharagiri Falls was one such place and we had to have a look, no matter what. Had Lunch and began the ride under heavy rainfall. Speeds reduced on slippery roads covered with slush, leaves and mud. The mountains got steeper again, greenery deepened and the clouds were dark grey in color. It felt like we were in the middle of a rainforest as humidity levels rose and frequent drizzles were a common occurrence. The hours passed by as we were racing against the Sun set, trying to make it in time to get a glimpse of the waterfall. We reached the entrance at 4pm and quickly got on to our feet for the 1 kilometer trek to the falls. Amazing terrain with black

rocks allowing clear water to flow-by was what we were treading through. Amidst the dense forests with creepers, herbs and massive trees, the sound of gushing water captivated us and forced us to take quick steps inspite of being tired from the ride. Within minutes we were at the magnificent fall and a small narrow bridge. Crossed the falls, and continued our climb to the top the mountain. Simply, not advisable, especially when the rain is pouring down, the climb was extremely slippery as our accent was shortened by the approaching darkness. Decided to climb down, enjoy the falls and return back 10 kilometers to a small town known as Adivaram for the night’s stay.

Peaks, Caves and Forests:The next day, we decided to head back to Bangalore but with an instinct to explore. The milestone after 20 odd kilometers said, ‘Chembra Peak’ and we decided to go for it. Took the turn onto the steep mountain, paid a 150 rupee entry fee and started riding towards the top. The 5 kilometer ride and the two kilometer walk through tea estates, creepers hugging trees and small pathways was breathtaking. Sheer ecstasy is what ran through our minds as we let loose and walked in all directions possible trying to get a glimpse of the green peaks from every angle possible. I never thought that the south would let us live moments of our life at 6900 feet above sea level in the middle of clouds, trees and tea estates. Later, after a few hours, all tired we again continued our ride towards Bangalore, this time we decided to pay a visit to the Edekkal caves, a

showpiece that freezes thousands of years in a couple of huge rocks. 24 kilometers from Kalpetta, we were there in an hour to set foot in the cave with writings from 6000 B.C. The 6 kilometer climb was frustrating and tiring. Legs felt wobbly and the only motivation was the fact that kids two decades younger to us were gladly making the climb. We slowly reached the top and enjoyed the skyscraping view more than the ancient writings themselves. But then knowing the reach of creativity our ancestors achieved was surely enlightening.

The Return:The route back was set. First to Muthanga, the run through the forest reserve, later

reach Gundulpet and then gun for Mysore and Bangalore. 250 kilometers of smooth tarmac, winding roads, cautious curves, horrendous hairpins, still backwaters and tall trees were waiting to be experienced one by one. The ride was fast and swift as we could predict the terrain and adapt accordingly. The sun had set and we had reached Malavalli. Decided to increase speed and eat into the last 70 kilometers at high speeds. We had the privilege to keep up with a Biker clan of 5 bikes riding at a constant 110kmph. Tried to keep up, took twisting turns by brushing knees with the tar and even overtook a couple of them at one point but then hunger made us stop at Kanakapura. Had a few plates of steaming rice and later rode the last 50 kilometers content with ourselves. The ride was rigorous and treks were tedious, making the whole experience unforgettable.

Learnings:

-Run as a convoy if there is more than one motorcycle

-Respect all co riders and motorcycle groups

-Stay friendly to locals

-Practice and preach caution on any trek route

-Make sure that the motorcycles are inspected and refueled at regular intervals